Halfway between Noto and Syracuse, on the east coast of Sicily, amidst the olive groves and rolling hills of the Iblean Valley, lies Dimora delle Balze – a 19th-century estate where time seems to pass more slowly.
Its history dates back to 1886, when the aristocrat Don Salvatore Zocco decided to build a summer residence for his family in the wilds known as Passo Ladro. A fortified complex was erected at the time, crowned by a watchtower. Although the owners only visited the place seasonally, the estate remained a living place over the years. Unfortunately, as the years passed, it fell into silence and oblivion.
It was not until the second half of the 2000s, when it came into the hands of the Lops family, that it began to regain its former splendour. It was then that it acquired its current name – Dimora delle Balze – inspired by the landscape of the surrounding hills, undulating like the ruffles of a dress. Balze literally translates from Italian as ‘ruffles’.
Originally, the venue was intended to serve as a space for private gatherings and family celebrations. Over time, however, Dimora opened its doors to guests. Elena Lops is responsible for its current appearance; together with designers Stefano Guidotti and Draga Obradović, she has breathed new life into the ancient walls – drawing out their history and subtly blending it with a contemporary sensibility.
From the moment you pass through the entrance gate, strolling along the grand Viale dei Carrubi – an avenue of carob trees, at the end of which a watchtower emerges from the greenery, and at its foot a large wooden entrance gate leading to the courtyard – you can sense that you are dealing with something exceptional. It is a setting with an almost cinematic quality – which is no coincidence, as Elena Lops is a set designer by profession.
The former stables and outbuildings have been converted into rooms and apartments, each with its own individual character and a name inspired by Sicilian culture and art. For example, the Prohibito room refers to Frank Capra’s 1932 film ‘Forbidden Fruit’.
During the renovation, the original stone walls, previously hidden beneath layers of plaster, were uncovered, along with frescoes dating back to the Risorgimento era, which naturally became the starting point for the interior design.
Many of the furnishings have been preserved, and the new ones complement them harmoniously – these are details meticulously sought out over the years at local antique markets – from brass candlesticks to the Teste di Moro, or ceramic Moor’s heads from Caltagirone, characteristic of Sicily.
An integral part of Dimora are the outdoor spaces – stone courtyards and terraces paved with local stone from the nearby town of Modica. The central courtyard, with its distinctive palm tree and antique sundial, sets the rhythm of the day; the others lead to the winter garden – a shaded relaxation area much loved by guests – and open up to a view of the Manghisi river valley.
The whole property is enveloped in Mediterranean vegetation – lemon trees, jasmine and aromatic herbs, which fill the air with the scent of the south.
text and photos: Agi Sibiga (https://agisibiga.com)
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