In the shadow of the high-profile Wandal, within The Form building, a completely different kind of venue is taking shape: quiet, intimate, built on emotion and subtlety. NÓW – a new concept by Adrian Bęben and Piotr Pietras MS – is an intimate fine-dining restaurant for twenty guests, where Polish terroir, bespoke pairings and precise cuisine create an experience that is more intimate than spectacular. Here, the light does not reveal, but conceals – allowing meanings to unfold slowly, layer by layer.
NÓW is the moment when the moon becomes invisible, yet it is still there. It is a presence that is hidden yet palpable: a pale, unassuming light that blurs the contours of reality. This idea of understatement permeates the entire space: from the narrative and service to the cuisine and wine list.
Adrian Bębn’s menu is based on a contemporary take on Polish terroir. This is not about reconstructing the cuisine of yesteryear, but an attempt to capture its landscape: the silent depths of lakes, the rustling tales of the forest, the secrets of fermentation and maturation plucked from time, and the unchanging rhythm of nature. The ingredients come from local producers and artisans, and the cuisine, whilst precise and technically perfect, deliberately eschews excessive formalism.
An integral part of this experience are the bespoke pairings, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. The latter, prepared on-site according to the team’s own recipes, are based on seasonality, fermentation, infusions and a multi-layered approach to the ingredients. They are not an alternative to wine, but an equal narrative of flavour, designed to guide the guest through the menu with the same depth and emotion.
From the outset, NÓW has been a very personal project, rooted in the experience and personalities of the people behind it. As at Wandal, the role of General Manager is held by Mikołaj Skrzypczak, who previously worked at London’s Gymkhana and Trishna, amongst others. The day-to-day management of the restaurant is handled by Magdalena Babik, who spent five years at the two-Michelin-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and one of the main faces of the dining room remains Iza Iskierka, a charismatic sommelier previously associated with the Wrocław restaurants Oda and Baba, who at NOWIU helps shape the guest experience and the narrative surrounding wine.
The wine and pairing programme is jointly overseen by Piotr Pietras – one of three Polish Master Sommeliers, Polish Sommelier Champion in 2015 and 2016, European Sommelier Vice-Champion in 2017, and World’s Best Young Sommelier in 2017 – alongside the aforementioned Magdalena Babik and Iza Iskierka. The list features several hundred labels from Europe, with a focus on its cooler regions. Alongside classic, renowned appellations and outstanding producers, an important role is played by the creatively vibrant fringes of the wine world and small, conscious winemakers, advocates of their terroirs and their traditions.
Equally strong is the kitchen team at NOWIU. Its head chef, Adrian Bęben – who also oversees the kitchen at Wandal – confirms his status as one of the most visionary figures on the Polish gastronomic scene. His sous chef, Piotr Komorski, gained experience at, amongst others, Copenhagen’s Jordnær*** and Geranium***, whilst team members Kuba Jakubiak and Jędrzej Krzemiński have worked at Atelier Moessmer *, De Nieuwe Winkel and the Michelin Green Star-awarded Tres.
Polish artists and craftspeople played a huge role in the creation of NOWI. Michał Jagiełło is responsible for the interior design, Tomasz Omachel created the furniture, bar and wine cellar, and Anna Barczentewicz produced the ceramics. The minimalist visual identity is the work of the London-based GP.works studio, led by Mateusz Piekarski, whilst the brand’s dreamlike language and narrative are the creation of Kuba Janicki (Pierwszy Serwis). Karolina Milczanowska is responsible for the project’s PR and media relations. Another key element of the space is the work of Cezary Poniatowski – an artist known for his organic reliefs and installations that balance between nature, physicality and dreams.
“We’re not interested in aloof fine dining based solely on technical perfection,” say Adrian Bęben and Piotr Pietras. “We want to create a place built on emotions, on a sense of closeness and intimacy. A place you return to not just for the taste, but for that ephemeral, hard-to-define experience.”
NÓW opens on 13 May 2026. It will be open from Wednesday to Saturday, offering an evening tasting menu only. Reservations can be made via the website.
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