Is vegan food unsatisfying and often lacking in flavour? Warsaw’s Manna 2 restaurant finally debunks this myth, inviting guests into the world of the future of plant-based cuisine. This remarkable spot on the capital’s culinary map serves technologically advanced dishes, including a meat-free steak from a 3D printer that looks just like the real thing. At the helm of this innovative concept, which combines world-class design with the culinary arts, is Anna Orzech – a charismatic restaurateur with thirteen years’ experience gained in the UK, including organising a banquet for Queen Elizabeth II.
3D STEAK AND CULINARY NOSTALGIA. WHY DO VEGANS MISS MEAT?
Manna’s menu is solid proof that plant-based cuisine has long since ceased to be exclusively for vegans. The flagship dish, which electrifies and challenges the guests’ senses, is a plant-based steak printed on a 3D printer. How is this culinary work of science fiction created?
– Imagine a printer with three ‘inks’. In this case, these are the ingredients that make up the steak’s structure: a protein source from soya and wheat, a fat source from rapeseed oil, and a component responsible for juiciness, namely beetroot juice and caramel. These three elements are applied in layers, alternating with one another. Natural flavourings are added to this. The process of printing a single steak takes just a few minutes,” explains Anna Orzech, owner of the Manna 2 restaurant.
At the restaurant, the steaks are marinated in red wine and served with gently mashed potatoes, confit cherry tomatoes, black garlic aioli, asparagus, leek fritters and fried Kalamata olives. All this makes the dish taste like a traditional piece of meat, which can come as a shock to diners. “I remember one guest’s reaction. His eyes sparkled with amusement, and his expression seemed to say: ‘Is this possible? Has Ania changed course and finally added a meat dish to the menu?’” says the restaurateur with a smile. “Our plant-based steak resembles its meat counterpart in terms of texture, juiciness and aroma. If you’ve tried any meat substitutes before, I can assure you this is in a completely different league. Order it for someone who eats meat every day and isn’t aware that Manna is a plant-based restaurant. We’re absolutely convinced it won’t arouse any suspicion.
For many meat-eaters, however, the presence of such dishes on a plant-based menu can come as a surprise. As Anna Orzech explains, the answer lies in the psychology of eating: ‘If someone doesn’t eat meat, why would they choose something that’s meant to resemble it? Because eating is about taste, not about harming animals. Many vegans and vegetarians haven’t given up meat because they didn’t like the taste, but for ethical reasons. They often miss certain textures and the depth of umami. Our plant-based equivalents, such as pulled ‘duck’ made from seitan, or ‘foie gras’ made from lentils and truffles under a layer of plant-based fat, are culinary nostalgia with a new twist. What’s more, familiar names provide a point of reference, ensuring that guests
know what to expect, and plant-based cuisine ceases to be alien to them,” explains the restaurateur. At the same time, Manna remains a place of choice. The 3D steak is treated as a curiosity for those open to experimentation, whilst vegetables remain at the heart of the menu.
A DESERT OASIS AMIDST THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE OF THE BIG CITY
Manna 2 was designed as a response to the fast-paced daily life of Warsaw. The interior, created by the acclaimed designer Kacper Gronkiewicz, is an example of design of the highest international standard. The space, rich in soft shapes, natural materials and subdued, desert-inspired colours, is intended to evoke the atmosphere of the film “Dune”. The walls feature references to the work of Maria Jarema – an outstanding Polish painter whose works can currently be admired at the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw. This unique setting encourages long gatherings, relaxation and the conscious enjoyment of flavour.
FROM BANQUETS FOR THE QUEEN TO THE ‘MOM & POP’ STYLE
The path to creating original concepts in Poland was fraught with challenges. Anna Orzech spent over a decade working in the UK, learning the catering industry from the ground up. This dedication took her to the very top – to co-creating prestigious events, including a banquet for Queen Elizabeth II.
– “When organising the banquet for the Queen, I learnt the principles of the so-called Silver Service. It is a precisely planned ritual. Each guest is assigned a waiter, dishes are served from platters; it is almost like a choreography – without unnecessary movements and with attention to every detail,” explains the owner. “Today, I apply that experience to planning, but I’m absolutely not a fan of formal rigour. We’re much closer to the American ‘Mom & Pop’ concept – places built on the authenticity of relationships.” Not so long ago, this style was completely natural in the United States. Usually, ‘Pop’ – meaning ‘Dad’ – did the cooking, whilst ‘Mom’ served the guests. The atmosphere was homely. Professionalism is, of course, important, but in a way that allows guests to feel completely at ease.
The advanced culinary techniques at Mannie 2 are the result of teamwork. The menu isn’t created by a single chef, but is the result of constant dialogue, experimentation and testing the balance between acidity, sweetness and spiciness. “Every dish is meant to unfold like a good adventure film – to enchant, surprise and sometimes bring a smile,” says Mann’s head chef, Karol Lebda.
A deep passion for uncompromising plant-based cuisine prompted Anna Orzech to return to Poland. She first realised her vision in Gdańsk by opening the restaurant Manna 68, which quickly gained cult status, maintaining an excellent average rating across hundreds of reviews. The next step was to conquer the demanding Warsaw market and open Manna 2 on Poznańska Street.
– The very name of the concept refers to biblical manna, a symbol of the gift of life and vitality that food provides. This is the foundation of our philosophy: food is a miracle that gives us energy every day, and this miracle deserves to be celebrated – explains the restaurant’s owner.
Restaurant: Manna2
Design: Kacper Gronkiewicz
Photos: Hanna Połczyńska / www.kroniki.studio
See also: Architecture | Warsaw | Restaurant | Interiors
