In the heart of Lisbon, on the Chiado hill, above the bustling Rossio square, rise the remarkable ruins of the Carmelite monastery (ruínas do Convento do Carmo). It is a site that has survived the centuries, having witnessed many events, including the devastating earthquake of 1755. Today, as a permanent ruin and museum space, the Carmelite convent combines history, architectural beauty and the memory of the city’s dramatic past, offering visitors a unique glimpse into Portugal’s heritage.
Founded in 1389 by the knight Nuno Álvares Pereira, the monastery was intended to be a place of spiritual renewal and refuge for Carmelites arriving from southern Portugal. The construction, led by master builders Afonso, Gonçalo and Rodrigues Anes, was a challenge due to the unstable ground. Despite the difficulties, impressive walls, chapels and a church on a Latin cross plan were erected.
View of the monastery in the Carmelite Chronicle (1745) before the 1755 earthquake. Photo: Biblioteca Nacional de Portugal
The Gothic style, inspired by the monastery in Batalha, gave the building a majestic character. Over time, the monastery became a centre of religious and cultural life, collecting valuable manuscripts and works of art. Unfortunately, many of these were lost as a result of the dramatic events of the 18th century.
on 1 November 1755, an earthquake with a magnitude of around 9 on the Richter scale almost completely destroyed Lisbon. The raging fires and tsunami that followed the tremor completed the disaster. The city’s most valuable buildings, including the Carmelite convent, were destroyed or severely damaged. In an instant, the roof of the church and other buildings collapsed, burying the priceless library of 5,000 volumes under the rubble. In 1756, reconstruction of the church in neo-Gothic style began, definitively interrupted in 1834 due to the secularisation of the religious orders in Portugal.
The pillars and nave arches, which are a true testament to experimental neo-Gothic architecture, date from this period of reconstruction. In the mid-19th century, when the romantic fondness for ruins and medieval monuments prevailed, it was decided not to continue rebuilding, leaving the body of the church’s naves open to the sky.
In 1864, the association of artists and architects Real Associação de Arquitectos Civis e Arqueólogos Portugueses decided to transform the ruins into a museum space. The main initiator of the project, Joaquim Possidónio Narciso da Silva, planned to create an archaeological museum there to house exhibits from different eras.
Today, the nave and apse of the monastery house a collection of archaeological artefacts, including Gothic tombs, statues of medieval rulers, and artefacts from the prehistoric era. Each tells a story about the region’s ancient inhabitants, their culture and art.
Although much of the church has been destroyed, its ruins are now a reminder of the temple’s past glory. The Gothic details, including ornate capitals and rosettes, impress with their precision workmanship. The modern adaptation of the ruins as a museum allows visitors not only to admire the architecture, but also to immerse themselves in the country’s rich history.
The ruins of the Carmelite monastery are a combination of history and art that attracts visitors from all over the world. Preserved in their imperfect form, they are a memorial to the dramatic events that shaped the Lisbon of today.
Source: informacoeseservicos.lisboa.pt, museuarqueologicodocarmo.pt
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