The culinary corner of Stary Browar in Poznań has undergone a metamorphosis. A Food Hall zone was created, which was designed by architects from the mode:lina studio. Independent restaurateurs, niche concepts and an openness to experimentation, including a pop-up space under the direction of Orson Hejnowicz, the Polish ‘The Bear’, are just a few of the hallmarks of the new zone in Stary Browar in Poznan. The Democratic Food Hall serves authentic street food, drawing on the ideas of traditional urban food markets.
The Food Hall in Stary Browar is a new place on the culinary map of Poznan, which was born out of the need to combine the freedom of authentic street food with a celebratory experience. The space, inspired by iconic European food markets, offers a journey across different latitudes. Above all, however, it is part of the DNA of Stary Browar, which has been the living centre of the city for more than two decades, forging new paths by combining unique shopping, culinary and cultural experiences.
‘The culinary offer of Stary Browar escapes the standard associations with gastronomy in a shopping mall, it is much broader and richer ,‘ says Magda Kowalak, president of the company managing the Poznań centre. – The individual zones and premises have a unique character and design. The domain of the new Food Hall is authentic street food with dishes from all over the world and bars with an unconventional offer. We have created a place that meets the interests of modern foodies who expect variety, freedom and quality,” he adds.
The new zone operates seven days a week, including non-trading Sundays.
The missing element on the map of the complex
Stary Browar is one of Poznań’s most recognisable buildings. The red brick building, erected on the basis of the remains of a 19th century brewery, combines commercial and cultural functions, escaping the definition of a traditional shopping centre. Its location on the map of Poznań makes the place a natural space for meetings, including culinary ones. From the beginning of the complex’s existence, the gastronomic offer has been an integral part of it: a food court – a place for quick meals – is located in the Atrium. In the Courtyard there are restaurants with waiter service. Visitors can also stop off at the numerous coffee, sandwich and cake outlets scattered throughout the complex. The niche between the zones is filled by the youngest in the family, the Food Hall – a more experimental space created for everyday enjoyment and celebration in company or alone.
The hustle and bustle of a culinary market in the heart of Stary Browar
As the creators of the project emphasise, the new space is inspired by traditional urban food-markets – Lisbon’s Mercado da Ribeira or Amsterdam’s Foodhallen – and draws handfuls on the idea of an authentic, local and egalitarian place. Independent restaurateurs, niche chains and representatives of different culinary traditions were invited to join the project. The offer ranges from comfort food in the form of gemüse kebab, smash burgers or the iconic fries with kraft sauces and fresh toppings to Greek, Thai or Korean classics. The democratic spirit is also evident in the communal spaces designed by the mode:lina™ studio, which are organised in such a way that large groups of friends or whole families, couples or people eating alone can feel comfortable in the Food Hall.
Stary Browar is an architectural icon of Poznań, so when approaching the design of the new Food Hall area, we wanted to create an open and vibrant zone that would fit seamlessly into the building’s well-known, distinctive style. In diversifying the space, we decided to divide it into four visually distinct zones. Sculptural elements define the individual areas, stylistically fitting into the surrounding space,” explains Kinga Kin, mode:lina.
Designing in a building that is more than 20 years old is a challenge. The architects had to adapt the interior to the existing fabric.
Designing in a building that is more than 20 years old always comes with certain constraints, but in this case they worked rather positively. We completely changed the space in relation to the previous food court – the current one occupies a much larger area. Everything from the floors to the ceilings to the layout of the units is new. However, we have retained the recognisable industrial character of Stary Browar, referring to its unique architecture. As aresult, the modern space harmoniously blends with the entire building,” says Paweł Garus, mode:lina. – The space of the Food Hall is distinguished by steel, geometric constructions with a sculptural character, which organise the interior into several zones. An important detail is the geometric granite cube floor, which subtly alludes to the industrial style of the facility. Natural materials, carefully selected vegetation and a variety of contemporary furniture reinforce the impression of a trendy yet cosy space, clearly different from typical food courts, adds the architect.
In addition to the pocket formats with a large communal space, the new zone also features two bars: the coffee bar Dawn and the cocktail bar Twilight, with a wide range of non-alcoholic beverages that fit in with the all-day-dining concept. In the words of Joanna Tupalska, marketing director of Stary Browar:
‘You can come to the Food Hall for a quick lunch, but also sit for hours with your favourite dishes and cocktails. You can drop in spontaneously, even in a large group – we have as many as 600 seats. At weekends, we organise DJ sets and concerts. The Food Hall, like the entire Stary Browar, is also a place friendly to creative experimentation.
One cuisine, many creators
One of these is the temporary Pop2Up concept – a place where a different creator takes the kitchen helm every weekend. Its proud curator is Orson Hejnowicz – a chef with a ‘stellar’ CV, TV personality and serial restaurateur. He has made his mark in the hearts of Poznań residents primarily as the author of the Wolność Neobistro concept in Jeżyce, where he served the cult de volaille with chicken essence. Under the Pop2Up banner, Hejnowicz brought to the brewery’s Food Hall the same ideas with which he won the palates and hearts of Wolność Neobistro’s guests: openness to food and cooking “with no rules, no restrictions, no fixed menu, no conventions”.
The pop-up in the mall was an experiment for me – I never imagined myself in such a space. The Food Hall surprised me with the looseness and openness of the guests. A one-off initiative has grown into a larger project involving gastro creatives I appreciate and enjoy: from fine-dining ‘old-timers’ to young, talented ‘do-gooders’. Pop2Up is all about surprises, discoveries, surprises, getting out of the dreariness of everyday life ,” says Orson Hejnowicz.
The new zone is accompanied by a coherent visual identity, designed by graphic designer and illustrator Michał Loba. The designer wanted to refer to the architecture of the Food Hall, so he proposed a modular composition of the sign and such motifs as trusses, vines and views of open kitchens.
FOOD HALL STARY BROWAR
Hours of operation:
MON-FRI: 12:00-21:00*
SAT: 12:00-22:00*
SUNDAY: 12:00-20:00
*on Fridays and Saturdays, bars open until 11:00 pm
Location: Old Brewery, Passage 2
design: mode:lina architekci
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