It is located in the UNESCO-protected Tokaj area, so its design could only intervene in the green area to a limited extent. The Hungarians at BORD Architectural Studio found a way around this and decided to blend the modern winery into the hillside. Glass and steel harmoniously correspond with the waving rows of vineyards and at the same time emphasise the value of the land.
Tokaj, a land of volcanic origins and continental climate, has been famous for its wine production for centuries. Already before the arrival of the Magyars, the settlers hollowed out cellars in the rhyolite tuff where the first liquors matured. The legendary ashú, a sweet wine made from finely graded grapes, has for centuries branded the region as the ‘king of wines and the wine of kings’. The mid-20th century brought standardisation and mass production, but after the political changes, a kind of wine passion was revived. Since the beginning of the 21st century, modern wineries, along with a rising tide of tourists, have breathed fresh life into Tokaj, although the infrastructure is still struggling to keep up with the visiting boom.
The architectural vision for Sauska Tokaj was born out of the need to showcase the diversity of the local wines. The concept was to respond to the predominance of light, dry whites and sparkling liquors, but also to allow for the realisation of a restaurant area and guest space. The choice of a parcel of land at the top of the hill became both an inspiration and a challenge. As architect Péter Bordás himself points out: “(…) what I create should not touch the untouchable – it should float or rest, like a ball on an invisibly small surface. The goal is a construction that seems seemingly improbable, present and yet physically independent of its surroundings”.
Two intersecting lenticular volumes with a span of thirty-six metres fit into the landscape like ephemeral forms. The interiors, which require stable temperatures from fermentation to lagering, are located deep underground in circular halls with rusting steel vats arranged concentrically around a central zone of oak barrels. The restaurant and bar areas are located in spaces floating above the ground, supported by steel columns.
The way guests are received is a small masterpiece of architectural drama. The entrance, hidden in the steepness of the terrain, allows the views to be absorbed first, before the eyes encounter the lump of the winery in all its glory. A path from the car park leads through the vineyards, overlooking the carefully tended vines, to finally invite you into an atrium filled with natural light. From there, a corridor with glazing overlooking the panorama leads out, and further on, the restaurant opens up with a high, curved ceiling that subtly tapers towards the view. On the terrace, guests experience the full scale of the landscape – a moment when nature and architecture meld into one.
The interiors designed by Tihany Design pay homage to local materials and traditions. Oak floors mingle with cladding of local limestone, while steel details give the spaces a sophisticated yet cosy feel. The paint of straw wine yellow is complemented by natural beiges and the luscious greens of the plants. Every detail is reminiscent of the region’s roots, while also fitting into the language of contemporary design.
Technologically, the winery presents neat, logical process solutions. The presses, bottling and labelling lines are set up in a rectangular area connected by a tunnel to the fermentation halls. It is through this subterranean corridor that tankers of fruit enter and finished wines leave. The tunnel also houses key mechanical installations, whose cool, metallic minimalism contrasts sharply with the warmth of the visitor space.
Sauska Tokaj is much more than a winery. It is a symbol of the region’s rebirth, an expression of respect for tradition and at the same time a bold step towards the future. The Sauska Tokaj project was commissioned by Sauska & Partner and built by BORD Architectural Studio between 2014 and 2022. The building, with a total floor area of 5,830 sq m, was completed in 2024.
design: BORD Architectural Studio
photography: Hufton Crow
source: V2COM
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