Kembali in the Indonesian language means return. Almost eight years after her first project trip, Anna Orska returned to Bali to discover how much had changed on the island. The same place turned out not to be the same anymore. So in creating the Kembali jewellery collection, the designer reached back to the unchanging Balinese roots: nature, craftsmanship and ritual. These three things are interconnected, intermingle daily and constitute what could be called the essence of the island.
ISLAND OF SPIRITS, FLOWERS AND ARTISTS
The people of Bali, the island of spirits and flowers, have known about the extraordinary power of nature for millennia. The lush local vegetation forms the largest natural pharmacy in the world. It not only nourishes, protects and inspires – it is also an integral part of the many rituals that punctuate the rhythm of life on the island. Local plants, fruits and flowers are a fundamental component of the offerings, repeatedly made each day at home shrines. They act as a link between the supernatural and the everyday; the tangible and the magical. They are the basis of the Canang Sari thanksgiving ritual, in which each member of the family places his or her basket, hand-woven from palm leaves, filled with colourful flowers and lit incense, at the home shrine. Placed on the altar of the good spirits, they are supposed to beg harmony, balance and peace for the residents.
JEWELLERY SCULPTURES
The Kembali collection featured silver and gold-plated jewellery with contrasting black and white carved flowers: rose, chrysanthemum, lotus flower and hibiscus. All these plants have their own symbolic meaning in Bali. The white lotus flower is a sign of innocence, the hibiscus is a symbol of courage, while chrysanthemums in Asian countries are identified with joy and long life.
The hand-carved jewellery was made by local masters using techniques and traditional materials that have been passed down from generation to generation. Each piece took several to several hours to create. From the Ubud area, the components made their way to the ORSKA jewellers’ table, where the snake-like forms were framed. In Balinese culture, the ode, or snake, is a positive symbol with a rich meaning. This is why it has become the leitmotif of the entire collection – precisely reproduced snake scales encircle the black and white flower sculptures, envelop the fingers in the form of wide rings, surround the wrists and necklines in the form of ornamental chains forming bracelets and necklaces. The symbol of the snake encourages us to discard what does not serve us and make room for the new.
BACK TO NATURE
The strong link between nature and ceremonies has raised the question of the presence of ritual in our lives as well. Increasingly, when seeking respite, we escape to nature. Nature soothes and inspires, contact with it is the best cure for stress, busyness and the daily challenges of big city life. The Kembali jewellery collection is meant to be a reminder that getting back to nature should be our most important ritual.
ORSKA:
ORSKA creates jewellery with character, her designs are expressive and often controversial. The rawness of the forms, the roughness of the textures and the different idea behind each collection reflect the temperament of the brand. ORSKA jewellery is not an accessory. It creates a creation in itself. Anna Orska’s specific design is for daring people looking for an original form of style. Each piece has an individual character. This is due to the handmade workmanship and the use of peculiar, often unique materials. The components come from different parts of the world and from different eras, just like the concept of the collection itself. The author’s designs are appreciated by the world’s fashion press, with Italian Vogue Accessory and German Vogue at the forefront. ORSKA is rebellious, diverse and unpredictable. She is not afraid of experimentation. She is constantly searching. One thing is constant about her.
See also: Fashion | Jewellery | New collection
